Malaysia – At the Crossroads of the World

General Thoughts

Malaysia, the country that has been at the centre of several major international events in recent years. From the tragic losses of two commercial airlines to the recent assassination of a prominent member of the Kim dynasty, it seemed for a time that Malaysia could not catch a break. Yet, if for just one moment, one looks past the big news stories, Malaysia begins to unravel itself as a place of unimaginable natural beauty and cultural richness. 

The territories that constitute present-day Malaysia have been settled by various kingdoms that have introduced some of the world’s great religions including Islam, Buddhism and Hinduism. For centuries, Malaysia was at the crossroads of great Southeast Asian civilisations and the European colonial powers that have sought to control its strategic lands and seas. Today, Malaysia is, much like its southern neighbour Singapore, composed of three main ethnic groups: the Malays, the Chinese and the Indians. Unlike Singapore however, Malaysia’s political system is dominated by the Malays. 

Through my conversations with local Malaysians, it is clear that the ethnic tensions that gave rise to the political strife in the early years of Malaysia’s existence as an independent nation (which was part of the reason why Singapore was expelled from the Malaysian Federation in 1965) continues to have a tangible presence today. However, I can also feel, especially from the voices of younger generations, a genuine appreciation for Malaysia’s multiculturalism and its openness towards people of different faiths. Malaysian youths learn to speak various languages in school, and their social circle is composed of people from various ethnic groups, social backgrounds and religious faiths. Where xenophobia and intolerance has become the political currency of politicians in the Western world, perhaps Malaysia’s embrace of multiculturalism is a social experience those politicians should take a long, introspective look at.

My Journey in Malaysia

Kuala Lumpur

Our flight into Kuala Lumpur from Manila arrived a few hours late, giving us little time to tour the city on our first day. From our hotel, we strolled to Jalan Alor, a highlight of the city with a bevy of restaurants, hawker stalls and street food. The smoky atmosphere, the dazzling array of meat, dessert and tropical fruit, the plastic stools and tables; everything our hungry stomach desired could be found here. I had some of the best chicken wings and durian (an acquired taste) here. This is a part of the city that never sleeps, as the crowd only seems to increase the later it gets. From Jalan Alor, we reached Jalan Bukit Bintang, a major boulevard of Kuala Lumpur where some of the city’s most high-end shopping centers are located.

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As we arrived on a Friday night, the area in and around the district of Bukit Bintang was filled with street performers and artists showing off their talent. Kuala Lumpur’s vibe really comes alive in the evening. Yet due to its tropical climate, sudden downpours of rain happen frequently, and it was one of these sudden rainfalls that soaked us and forced us to call it an evening.

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On our second day in Kuala Lumpur, we headed directly to a famous local restaurant to have Bak Kut Teh, a delicious Malaysian dish consisting of pork ribs immersed in a broth of exotic Oriental spices. After filling up our bellies, we headed straight to the Batu Caves on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur. A massive statue of the Hindu deity Murugan guards the entrance to the caves. It is a strenuous climb of a staircase with 272 steps is required to reach the top but the view of the KL skyline is breathtaking. Inside the caves, there are various colorful statues and shrines depicting scenes from the epic stories of Hinduism. We also toured the Dark Cave, one of the cave networks where the pitch black environment conceals a world of tiny critters and animals that call this place home. With the help of our tour guide’s flashlight, we were able to see some of these creatures (spiders and other insects), reminding us that life can exist in the most extreme conditions.

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After our adventure through the Batu Caves, we took an Uber to the Suria KLCC to visit the symbol of KL and what were once the tallest buildings in the world, the Petronas Towers. These twin steel behemoths have a floral design inspired by Islamic art. Unfortunately, we were not able to go up the towers as the tickets were sold out by the time we arrived. Instead, we spent our time outside in the courtyard in front of the towers attempting to take the perfect tourist photo. The Petronas Towers really come after the sun sets, when these steel giants are illuminated by hundreds of bright lights in contrast to the night sky. The mall adjacent to the towers, Suria KLCC, features some excellent restaurants including Madam Kwan’s, which is where we dined after a long day. Madam Kwan’s serves some uniquely Malaysian dishes that blends elements of Chinese, Indian and Malay traditional cuisine together in a symphony of flavor.

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On our last day in KL, we visited the Merdeka Square, the cricket field where Malaysia declared its independence from the UK. The square is flanked by the iconic Sultan Abdul Samad Building, which once housed the British colonial government and today is the office of several government ministries. Many events of national importance are held here every year, and on the day of our visit there were Hindu festivities and speeches by local politicians under the blazing sun. From Merdeka Square, we walked to the historic Jamek Mosque, one of the oldest in the country with beautiful architectural design with Moorish and Mughal influence. KL is where I said goodbye for now to my fiancee, as she flew back to Manila for work and I continued on my travels through Asia. On my ride to the airport, I also enjoyed an insightful dialogue with the Uber driver, who described the multicultural aspects of the school curriculum in Malaysia (everyone learns to understand Malay) and how the various ethnic groups in Malaysia have learned to live together despite their differences and the tension that flares up from time to time.

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See more pictures from my adventures in Malaysia at: https://storiesofnoah.com/gallery-view/malaysia/